General procedure is the harder the break in, the better it is for the rotor and brake pad combination. We are trying to bring the rotor temperature up as high as possible on the initial break in as this will seal the rotor off with a brake pad transfer layer and you will basically be running brake pad against brake pad material. At this point the coating loses the satin finish that it had initially but the rotor has actually picked up a thousandths or two and has not lost any coating at all. Remember it is best to literally abuse the rotors early on. This procedure is the total opposite of what you would do with a cast iron rotor because of its inability to withstand shock due to the brittleness of cast iron.
Dragging the brakes on slow laps during break-in is something that must be avoided, due to the possibility of glazing over the pads. Also jacking the car up and running the car in gear and dragging the brakes must be avoided totally. If this procedure was not followed and you have experienced a glazing of the brake pads simply pull the pads up out of the caliper and deglaze then in a bead blaster. If a blaster isn’t available then you will need to take a coarse rasp file on its edge and rough the pad up knocking the hard shiny glaze off the pad. It is also very important to have a properly bled system to ensure that the calipers are clamping with full force as a spongy hydraulic pedal will cause glazing. For proper maintenance of the system it is best after very long events (100 laps or more) to deglaze the pads. In the event of short races 25 to 50 laps it is best after 2 or 3 events to deglaze and to also keep the system purged with fresh high temp fluid. Each time your brake calipers are heated and cooled the fluid will lose some of its temperature resistance along with being much more vulnerable to absorbing water into the system.